Al Mahara | Dining

Is this a real submarine?' asked a Chinese tourist, as a computer-generated fish swam past the window. Our sea captain for the evening, a petite Filipino lady who had quite clearly never spliced the main brace or shivered her timbers in her life, giggled and cocked her head sympathetically. Yes, in your imagination, sir.

To be fair, it was hardly a scene from Das Boot. We were buckled into seats in a fairground submersible, which rumbled and trembled in simulated motion, while video screen portholes flashed images of weed-strewn rocks and a rippled seabed. Our captain told us not to be afraid, but to hold on tightly, presumably in case we encountered an overgrown CGI haddock or something. Then we gently jerked and shuddered to a halt at the door to Al Mahara, the flagship seafood restaurant at the Burj Al Arab.

It may have been a daft way for grown men and women to be carrying on, but all was forgiven when Al Mahara's stunning aquarium loomed into sight. Known as The Oval, the sweeping 360-degree tank contains 300,000 litres of deep-blue salt water, and a crazy haul of brilliantly named fish. As a Big Eye Trevally winked at my dining partner, and a Black Spotted Sweetlips blew me a watery kiss, we chose our catch from the menu. My soup featured thinly sliced but substantially textured baby abalone, which melded subtle seafood hints and a suggestion of oyster mushroom in its complex flavour. It floated in a rich miso tea next to wagyu beef cheek wantons that disintegrated in the mouth in a meaty and delicately doughy pulp. Across the table, my friend was flirting with the tart of soft hand-dived scallops with potent black truffle and creamy leek. Both appetisers were accompanied by black squid ink bread and other soft rolls with a peppery butter spread.